Sunday, October 6, 2013

On the Alsatian plain

My iPad has run out of room for pictures from our 2 days in Alsace. This region that lies on the Rhein river valley between the black forests of France and Germany has changed hands numerous times between the French and Germans. So the architecture, cuisine, wines, and languages reflect the two cultures. German speaking tourists are everywhere in the quaint flower-bedecked towns that look like they could be in Switzerland. I've used French, German, and English in the same sentence to communicate. We've had good Alsatian Pinot Grigio and Riesling wines, very light compared to the big wines of the southern regions. 

So a few highlights. We spent yesterday visiting the Haut-Konigsburg castle, built starting in the 1300s high up to observe the marauders from miles around as they rode into the valley.  We then went to Barr, same as my middle name. There's also a town of Metz in Alsace, so someone needs to research whether some of the Stowe side came from this region. That was a fun place, with an incredibly picturesque setting of timbered houses dripping with flower baskets for a huge flea market and wine fest.  I could easily have decorated Orchard with all the wrought iron work, copper pails, milk buckets, etc. One of our tour did buy an old watering can for 20 euros that she can sell for $60 in her California antique shop!  We also discovered a delicious drink called picon. I shunned it initially because it said "Biere" on the bottle. But a friendly Swiss tourist visiting with his picon club explained that it was beer with orange liqueur added. And it was mightily fine. He helpfully told us we didn't need to buy Alsatian picon - just add orange liqueur to "any cheap beer even Budweiser". 

That fruitful encounter occurred in Kaysersberg, which besides being ancient and pretty is the hometown of Albert Schweitzer.  He might even have played on the organ I heard in the 12th century church where a soprano was performing some lovely arias such as Ave Maria. Gave me goosebumps!  I also did a little shopping an a Xmas shop that left the US versions in the dust. 

Today started rainy so we skipped another ruined castle and hit the tourist towns on steroids Riquewihr  and Eguisheim. Unbelievably quaint, lots of scenic pretzel and kugelhopf stands, chocolate and new Alsatian wine. Riquewihr had 2 shops with photos verboten: the Xmas shop and the store selling dozens of sizes and styles of good luck witches and wizard dolls. So you'll just have to imagine the fearsome level of cuteness inside. 

Afterward the rain stopped so we drove to the American and French war memorials set high above the valley, with stunning views extending into Germany. The French one included many graves, including a whole quadrant of Muslim headstones for the soldiers from France's North African colonies. How did they get there, to die so far from home for the colonial masters? A French speaking Muslim family was there reading off names on the headstones - Muhammad, Hussein, etc. Both memorials were very moving as remembrances of extraordinary courage and sacrifice shown by very young, mostly ordinary young men.

Tomorrow to Colmar, our last stop in Alsace, before the tour ends in Switzerland. Better get my postcards mailed! 

Will add pics in the next post. Note to self - blogging requires the power and storage size of a laptop. Bon nuit!

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