Wine, Lyon, and global cuisine

I'll do some text and post pics later. I should add about Viene - without it there'd be no Da Vinci  Code or sequels, because that's where Pope Clement ?? outlawed the Knights Templar. 

Yesterday we had a wonderful vineyard visit outside Viene at a family owned vineyard Cours de Loup (there's a wolf on the label) where the 27 year old son of the owner gave us the most informative wine tour ever.  For example, he explained why the different hills on the west side of he Rhone had different terroir (his was granite, but not NH style) and therefore different designations. He took us on a short walk thru the vineyard of Syrah grapes which slanted up at least 50 degrees - if you slipped, you weren't stopping until you hit the roof of the house. But no slippage, and he gave us a great tasting with wine and house-made hard goat cheese and sausage. Their white Viognier was so good, and it's hard to find good ones at home, so we bought a bottle. We first discovered Viognier on our family trip to the Loire valley in 2003; thanks GWBush for the tax cut that paid for it and Laura and Lizzie for coming along!  We gave him a Chicago Blackhawks t-shirt, which  he loved once he knew what sport it was: "there's no ice hockey in France".

After that, on to Lyon, third largest city in France. Looks like a mini-Paris with 19th century houses along he Rhine and Soane rivers and old churches, cafés, and shops. We had to quickly spruce up for our once in a lifetime dinner a a Michelin 2 star French restaurant with Lily and Jerry. The restaurant, L'Auberge d'Ile, was recommended by a Francophile work colleague.  I'll copy the email I sent him about it:

        Of our menu, the tuna tartare was amazing. The veal was delicious. The soufflé was a wonderful combo of texture and flavor. The cannoli was good but the ice cream made it, I've had as good in New Haven (DWS, please note!). The mushroom was transformational, the best tase of mushroom and foie gras ever. The fish was just ok. The crab was good but we get crab at home. The wine pairings were good but not transporting. Service was friendly but not as accurate as you'd expect for the price. Chef was very friendly, mentioned Michel Richard his friend in DC. Bill was ridiculous!

Menu below, if you can read it. 

Ty

After that blowout, it was hard to make our 9 am call for touring, and it was gray and raining solidly. But our intrepid group trekked over the Soane to see St. Jean cathedral ad take the funicular to Notre Dame (a relative newcomer, built in 1870) and the Gallo-Roman museum of artifacts frm Roman times in Lyon. A Celtic tribe lived here when the Romans arrived, and the smart ones collaborated and got Roman names. Lyon became a huge center for trade in Roman Gaul with the usual arenas, theaters, etc. 

After the museum, and a solid 2 hour nap, we woke up to the sounds of our group having a happy hour which we joined. They're all such nice people, mostly retired teachers who worked with Art and Olga in Illinois. They have interesting families and stories, proving one shouldn't make generalizations about Midwesterners. 

Even with happy hour snacks we needed food, and we knew we wanted Asian, especially since we knew that Asians would be working Sunday night even if French don't. And sure enough, one block away was L'Pekin, with a young couple and their baby son running the place. I ordered in Chinese, found out the dad was from Nanjing and mom from Guangzhou, and we had a wonderful meal. The food was more subtle and delicate, and more authentic, than what we get at home. So we thanked them  for a "feichang hau chr" meal and left happy in the drizzle. 

Tomorrow is more touring and museums, and then finally shopping time! Will upload pics next. It's great to have reliable wifi at last.